Climbing anchors are systems made by connecting individual anchor points for creating one master point. It is the point where the climber clip or rope clip into so that they securely attach to the rock. Knowing the right way of building anchors for climbing will help you in staying secure either in lead climbing or top-rope climbing.
You will have to consider several factors when trying to make an anchor. However, the process can quickly be completed in two steps.
Step One Of Building Anchors For Climbing
This step involves creating or identifying anchor points to use as integral parts of a higher mechanism. What you will be using as anchor point will largely depend on the gear available and your location. There are different varieties of anchors you can use, and these include:
These are rocks or trees that can help you in conserving other gear. Nevertheless, you must assess the reliability of such features before using them in your anchor system. Take, for instance, before using a tree; make sure that it is well-rooted, stable, and alive.
Avoid trees growing from cliffs. You can test trees by pushing them against their roots. To be on the safe side, make it a point to use healthy trees with 12 inches diameter. Rock features like chockstones and horns can also be used as parts of anchor systems. In this case, as well, you need to check to ensure they are well attached and stable.
These are all kinds of artificial equipment that you can leave attached to rocks permanently. Pitons and bolts are good examples in this category. Nevertheless, it is also vital for you to assess these anchors for weakness. Avoid using them if they show excessive wear, corrosion, or cracks. Avoid using pitons and bolts that move in all directions. Also, beware of outdated equipment.
These include stoppers and cams used in places where fixed or natural protection are not an easy thing to avail.
Step Two of Building Anchors for Climbing
This step involves connecting individual anchor points to create one master point. Standard anchors will feature two to three anchor points holding one downward pull and one upward pull. You will have to efficiently connect the anchor points and then equalize them for building the perfect anchor. Balancing them is essential for distributing the load equally among all the anchor points.
An anchor can be equalized by making use of long section cord known as cordelette. You can even use runners for the process. Use any of the two basic methods of anchor equalization. They are self-equalization and static equalization.
It is a type of anchor system where several anchor points are tied together. Such anchor points do not have any adjustability or slack. They are perfect for climbs with clear directions of pull like straight down.
Anchors For Climbing – Self-Equalization
It is the method of creating an anchor in a way that it perfectly adjusts to the changes in the direction of pull for distributing the load evenly to different anchor points.